How to introduce a puppy to new people
How you introduce your puppy to new people will shape the dog they become. You want a confident, social, well-adjusted dog? Then you’ve got to get introductions right—early, consistently, and calmly. As someone who’s spent a decade in veterinary care and runs a sanctuary filled with dogs who weren’t properly socialized, I can tell you this: if you don’t take control now, you’ll deal with fear, anxiety, and aggression later.
1. Set the Tone—You’re the Leader, Not the Puppy
Puppies feed off your energy. If you’re nervous, they’re nervous. If you’re relaxed, they’ll settle. So when someone new walks in, you lead. Don’t scoop the pup up or flood them with “It’s okay, baby” nonsense. That teaches them there’s something to be scared of.
Be neutral. Calm. Assertive. Show the puppy there’s nothing to worry about.
2. Slow It Down—Let the Puppy Approach
Don’t shove your puppy into someone’s arms. Don’t let strangers rush them, squealing like it’s a stuffed animal. That overwhelms a young dog and can trigger lifelong social anxiety.
Instead, let the puppy observe. Give them time. Let them sniff and approach at their pace. Ask the person to ignore the pup at first—no reaching, no grabbing, no high-pitched voices. Puppies aren’t toys. They’re animals trying to process new information.
3. Control the Environment First
Don’t start introductions at a loud park, crowded party, or chaotic household. Start small. Quiet room. One person at a time. You want the puppy focused and feeling safe.
This isn’t a social free-for-all—it’s training. Every introduction is a lesson: This is a safe world. People are okay. You don’t need to panic or jump or hide.
4. Reward Calm Behavior, Not Excitement
Here’s where most people mess up. The puppy jumps, licks, wiggles like crazy—and everyone rewards it with attention. That’s a mistake. You’re reinforcing hyper, uncontrolled behavior.
Wait for a sit. Wait for a calm moment. Then give praise. Teach your puppy that calm = reward. Chaos = nothing.
5. Teach People How to Act, Too
Sometimes the problem isn’t the dog—it’s the people. Be direct. Tell them what the puppy needs. “Please don’t reach right away.” “Let her sniff you first.” “Keep your voice calm.”
You’re not being rude. You’re protecting your dog’s development. If someone won’t respect that, don’t let them interact with your pup. Simple as that.
6. Read the Signs and Know When to Pause
If your puppy tucks their tail, hides, growls, or freezes, that’s a red flag. They’re overwhelmed. Stop. Don’t force it. Take a step back. Give them space. Then try again another day, slower.
Pushing a fearful puppy too fast is how you create fear-based behavior. And once that’s locked in, it’s hard to undo.
7. Make It Routine—Don’t Stop at One or Two
Socialization isn’t a one-time deal. You need repetition. Different people, different ages, genders, appearances, smells. The more variety your puppy sees in a calm, positive way, the better they’ll adapt as they grow.
Miss this window (especially before 16 weeks), and you’ll be playing catch-up later—trust me, I’ve worked with the dogs who weren’t given the chance.
Final Word: Raise a Dog, Not a Problem
Too many people call me months later saying, “My puppy used to be fine with people, now he barks and lunges.” That didn’t come out of nowhere. That’s poor socialization—or none at all.
So take responsibility. Be intentional. Teach your dog to trust the world by managing the world they experience. Done right, this phase sets your dog up for life.
