How to stop a Boxer dog from chasing other animals
Boxers are loyal, muscular, and full of drive. But let’s not sugarcoat it—they’ve got a high prey instinct. That means when your Boxer sees a cat, squirrel, or even a smaller dog bolting across the yard, they don’t stop to think. They chase. And if you don’t address it early, it becomes a serious issue—not just a nuisance, but a danger.
Let’s get into what you need to do—no nonsense, no fluff.
Face the Fact: It’s Instinct, Not Malice
Here’s what I tell every new Boxer owner who walks into my clinic wide-eyed after their dog chased a neighbor’s cat up a tree: Your dog is not a monster. But you have a problem to solve.
Boxers were bred with working instincts—some for hunting, some for protection. Chasing is in the blood. But instinct is not an excuse. It’s your job to redirect that drive and teach control.
Lock Down Obedience Before You Chase Solutions
If your Boxer won’t come when called, forget stopping the chase. You need a rock-solid recall. I’m talking about immediate response—not “he comes when he feels like it.”
Start with basics:
- “Sit,” “Stay,” and especially “Leave it”
- Train on a long lead or leash
- Use high-value rewards (chicken, liver, not some dry biscuit)
Practice in low-distraction environments first. You wouldn’t teach someone to swim by throwing them into the deep end. Don’t throw your Boxer into a squirrel-filled park until they’re trained for it.
Leash the Beast: Control First, Freedom Later
Don’t give a chasing Boxer free roam. That’s asking for trouble. I don’t care how big your yard is or how “friendly” your dog is. When they see a small animal and lock in—that chase is happening unless you stop it before it starts.
Use:
- A strong leash
- A front-clip harness for control
- A no-pull collar if needed
In public? Keep the leash on. No exceptions. You’re the leader. Act like it.
Desensitize with Controlled Exposure
At my sanctuary, I’ve rehabbed dogs who once chased everything that moved. You know how we did it? Exposure. With structure.
Here’s how:
- Start with the Boxer on leash.
- Have another animal (cat, dog, goat—whatever the trigger is) at a distance.
- The second your dog notices but doesn’t react, reward.
- Move closer in small increments.
- The moment they show focus or tension, stop and redirect their attention.
This takes time. Don’t rush it. You’re building a new response pattern, not flipping a switch.
Work That Energy Out—Every Day
A tired Boxer doesn’t chase. It’s that simple.
- Long structured walks (no sniffing marathons)
- Tug and fetch games to tap into drive
- Agility or obedience drills to wear them out mentally
Give your dog a job. Don’t let them invent one.
Never Use Pain or Fear—Use Redirection and Leadership
I’ve seen people try shock collars or scream their lungs out. That’s not training. That’s lazy and cruel. You want respect, not fear.
Instead:
- Use a “look at me” command
- Redirect with a toy or command
- Reward calm behavior near animals
You’re not just stopping bad behavior—you’re teaching a new choice.
Know When to Get Professional Help
If your Boxer has already hurt another animal or shows obsessive fixation, don’t go it alone. Call in a certified behaviorist. And rule out medical issues too. Sometimes unchecked thyroid levels or neurological conditions can spike aggressive impulses. Don’t ignore the vet side of this.
Final Word from the Jersey Vet
I run a sanctuary where prey drive can mean life or death—for cats, chickens, and other vulnerable animals. I don’t have the luxury of “maybe he won’t chase today.” I train. I lead. I set structure. And you should too.
Boxers are powerful. But they’re not out of control by nature. They’re out of control when you let them be.
Earn their focus. Guide their energy. And never forget—you set the tone.
